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G) 105mm 1:1 + reversed 50mm lens = 8.3mm - 3:1 magnificationįrom this you can see that if you were to use a full stack of tubes (68mm) you will get a 2:1 magnification. If you have a 100mm 1:1 macro here are some of the magnification ratios you can achieve with it įor a D300 23.6 x 15.8 mm sensor and 105 macroĪ) 105mm 1:1 (closest focusing distance) = 23.6mmĮ) 105mm 1:1 + 12 + 20 + 36mm tubes (68mm) = 12mm - 2:1 magnification This is not to say there is not a place for stacking but I consider it something that is often done, simply because it can be. I disagree that an unstacked macro does not seem good enough any more as many would prefer to see a pleasing artistic representation going from sharp to creamy bokeh for such items as flowers and many bug close-ups.
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The really close 'microscopic' standard shots have been beyond me, so far, since I think they rely on captive/dead subjects, which I am not keen on.Īs for stacking software CombineZp by Alan Hadley is another option. I have attached an example of raindrops on a rose stem as an example. I have used my setup for other subjects though, and achieved reasonable results. I have considered experimenting with a (step) motorised focussing rail, but the setup is fairly expensive and I have not really been able to convince myself it's a 'must have'.
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The flip side of that issue is that precision with manual changes using a focussing rail is more difficult. Basically, I found that automated stepping is a slower process than can be achieved manually. Ok ,regarding capture, I have found that in general, unless you can 'immobilise' a subject for a significant period of time, it is difficult to achieve a good sequence of stacked shots with a tethered setup.
Now I use CS6 and have been quite happy with the results. I stuck with CombineZP for a long while, because it is free, and more importantly, I didn't think it did a bad job in relation to Zerene. I found that stacking jpegs gave good results, though in the end I did licence my version.Ī lot of people use Zerene, and fewer use Helicon Focus to stack images I have used both as trials and Helicon is definitely the Gold Standard from my point of view. Licencing costs $48 and allows Raw captures.
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The unlicenced app is free but only allows Jpeg image capture.
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(My laptop was a bit too bulky and awkward) Additionally, the Android app can be downloaded independent of the Helicon Focus stacking software package. I use the Android version because a tablet is much easier to use in the wild. The Helicon Remote app comes in a number of flavours. I also have used Combine ZP (a free image stacking program) as an alternative to CS6 and had good results with it. I have been experimenting with focus stacking for a while now and use the following: -ġ) Camera mounted on steady tripod (pretty obvious I know)ģ) Nexus 7 tablet, loaded with Helicon Remote (Android app), tethered and controlling focus stepping on the camera.Ĥ) Photoshop CS6 to stack the image stack. It needs no electrical connection to the camera. The enlarging lens can be focused wide open and then stopped down manually. However, you can often use an enlarging lens on a bellows for some very great image ratio images. Many (most) bellows do not have this type of connection.
It is difficult to stop down a lens unless here is an electrical connection between the lens and the camera. I would recommend that flash is used rather than continuous lighting because it is better in quite a few ways: more powerful, less heat and capable of stopping action when the flash is the primary light source.Ī bellows might be another option however, there are some very important problems using a bellows with modern lenses. When you are working with extension tubes, there is quite a bit of light loss so it is best to add supplemental lighting. You "can" achieve this with other than a macro lens and extension tubes but, the macro lens will provide the very best image quality. In order to get a larger than life size image (larger than 1:1) you can add an extension tube or combination of extension tubes to your macro lens. That is, the size of the image on your sensor will be the same, or in a 1:1 relationship to the size of the subject. Louise, a "traditional" macro lens will allow you up to a 1:1 image ratio.
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